FEETURES!
9 years ago
This is my account of our day-to-day life in the French Pyrénées, initially in the unspoilt Ariège department and then further west along the chain, where wild boar and deer are prevalent, where birds of prey call as they circle overhead catching the thermals, where wild produce is available in abundance and where both the summer and the winter outdoor sports enthusiast is spoilt for choice!
Looking back from the path that would lead me up to Liers, the smouldering cloud inversion in the Massat Valley with the high mountains in the distance provided a stunning vista
The aim of my jolly jaunt was to try and locate a track that contours the hillside above Liers and eventually winds its way around the slopes beneath Pic de la Journalade with the possibility of providing onward access on skis de rando to Pic des Trois Seigneurs in the right conditions. I didn't know how far I would get, but the peaks looked spectacular with their snowy covering. It was an absolute joy to be out in such beautiful conditions.
I located the start of the track without any difficulty but encountered a chasseur there who warned me against continuing much further - I had forgotten it was Sunday! Having taken his words on board, I still decided to press on steadily, as the track was just too tempting and would provide some superb running on compacted but not too icey snow. I was keen to get as close to the high peaks as I could and was thoroughly enjoying the stunning environment.
However, I eventually reached a point where I felt it prudent to make an about turn and retrace my tracks. I had already covered just under 10kms with nearly 700m of ascent and was mindful of the need to get back home in one piece! The run back down was great fun and I completed the 'there and back' route in just over 3 hours. Unfortunately, today's weather is not set to last, so I am all the more pleased with having made the most of today's opportunity!
Andy has today completed the oak corner posts and also the beech kick boards for the kitchen units, which I have treated with linseed oil before they are put into place. The next few days are due to bring more poor weather so more indoor jobs will no doubt be on the agenda.
So I pressed on, happy in the knowledge that my target in the distance was perfectly accessible in my B2 boots with the back up of my Kahtoola crampons should they be required.
In 2 hours I reached the summit point of 2001m which afforded striking views of Pic de Saint Barthelemy and, beneath it, the Mont d'Olmes ski centre.
I was alone. It was blissful. I soaked up the atmosphere, the sun and the vista for a few minutes before the bitingly cold wind urged me to think about my descent back down. I donned my crampons to aid a faster descent on the sections of icey terrain that I had come across on my way up. In just over an hour I was back at the car. 750m of ascent over 5kms. A brief but satisfying little outing.
It's been snowing on and off for the past couple of days, but it is still the cold, icey thin snow that is treacherous to walk on. The Cap des Campets that overlooks us from behind has a thin covering but not a sufficient covering to warrant a snowshoe outing
This afternoon, we popped down into the woods and finally found some holly that had been able to hold onto its precious red berries. We quickly gathered a basket full and this evening I will be decorating the beams and other surfaces downstairs. I still haven't found my box of Christmas decorations, so the tree is still looking somewhat naked, save for a few red ribbon bows. A trip to the shops is in order.
with a lovelyview of the Col des roses and Pic de Barres in the distant, weak sunshine.
and on down to the descent path which led back down to the quiet road that leads from Liers back in to Massat. A pleasant little outing.
The spinach and lambs lettuce is doing well under a cloche, the leeks are now reaching edible size and the spring cabbage is filling out nicely. It will soon be time to start thinking about a sowing/planting plan for the spring - how time flies!

The rest of the riding was thoroughly enjoyable and the weather was perfect. I had forgotten to afix my Garmin to the bike so had no idea how long we had been out for although the descending sun suggested it was nearing 5 o'clock. I also had no idea of the distance we had covered. I just knew I was tired although I was pleased with how good I had felt on the ride.
We strapped our snowshoes onto our packs and set off in the direction of Col Dret, following the footsteps of another bod who had the same idea, maybe today, maybe yesterday, impossible to tell when. There was snow on the ground but it was wet and heavy and not particularly pleasant. Higher up, towards the Col, deeper drifts prevailed. Here, we were grateful for the footsteps of our absent friend which made the going rather easier than it would otherwise have been. From the Col, we followed the fence up the steep ridge to Tuc du Laguelle, occasionally post-holing in deep drifts and trying to avoid getting our poles tangled in the heather and bilberry bushes that covered the hillside. The views towards the Port de Lhers were stunning, flanked on the left by Pic de Barrès and by Pic de Girantes on the right
Pic des Trois Seigneurs and Pic de la Journalade appear to have a good covering although colder conditions will be required if we are to head up there in the near future
The trot back down was slippy and wet but we were at least grateful for the exercise and the fresh air. More rain tomorrow and Tuesday the hopefully some decent weather towards the end of the week.
and this was even more evident as we looked from the top of Pech des Thermes towards the Rocher de Batail
Even Pic de la Journalde and Trois Seigneurs were looking a tad bare
As we looked towards the high mountains, we could see tonight's weather starting to build
So it had been good to make the most of the spectacularly beautiful but brief weather window while it lasted
and some other picturesque shots
Shortly afterwards, the snow started falling in earnest and has continued into the evening.
Then, more uphill towards the Pic de Razels
From there, a couple of kms through more woodland to the top of the zig zags above the Col de Port where the pooch and I stopped for some refreshment. Things were going well! We were on the home stretch now and past the half way point. Down the steep zig zags to the Col, picking up the GR de P which lead down into the woods and then the local markers for the Tour des Canadelles route home. Unfortunately, somebody had been felling trees along our route and trunks and tree debris were strewn across the path over a distance of a couple of hundred metres which made progress difficult and slow. However, once over that section it was good paths and sections of road home. I made it back in one piece, with tired legs (naturally) but no major aches or pains which is a big boost for me. It bodes well for the Trail des Citadelles in early April which is approximately the same distance and the same ascent.
which was very atmospheric as the clouds tumbled across the ridge towards the top
Back down at the Col, the autumn colours were striking, as the sun battled with the dark clouds that were threatening to suffocate it
The view on the way back down was stunning as always
The 'Pissou effect' continues to work its magic and Jamie returned relaxed and with batteries recharged once again. It had been lovely to have him to stay as always!
and we could see the Col de Port with Mont Fourcat and the higher Pic de Barthélémy in the distance.
Pissou is visible down below us
It was a good run of 11kms in beautiful scenery
Tomorrow's plans will be discussed over some vin rouge this evening!
The pooch was happy to pose for the obligatory photo with the Pic de Médécourbe as a backdrop
Just the odd drift was all that remained of the snow below 1900m. We had intended to aim for the Etang de Médécourbe at 2100m but realised we would have company as we encountered a solitary walker, so changed our plan and followed the GR up towards Port de Rat, avoiding the man-made track in favour of the steeper path that weaved up the hillside. The track would provide us with our fun on the way back down. As the skies cleared, the mountains took on an ever greater beauty
Just up and over and we would be in Andorra
We reached 2100m and the track up to the Port de Rat
but then reached a point at 2200m where further progress would require snowshoes so decided to save that for another day, turn around and start the fantastic run back down the track to the dam.
The view back down the valley was just beautiful
At the higher level, the snow on the track had melted just enough to leave a runnable band on one side which became wider as we descended until the track was completely clear in the valley bottom. We made a fast, fun descent from 2200m to 1650 over 6.5kms. It had been good to familiarise ourselves with a new and spectacularly beautiful area and plans are now forming for a possible ski tour later in the winter.
Route-finding in parts was, however, tricky as somebody, in their wisdom, had taken down the FFC waymarkers. But the riding was fun with no really technical sections, some fantastic downhills on which we could let loose and some steady, rideable climbs in beautiful scenery. I have a new, fatter tyre on my rear wheel and really noticed the increased 'grippiness' on muddier sections. It ws a cracking outing! Here is the profile of the undulating circuit
And on the way home I was treated to a beautiful sunset as I came down the road from the Col de Port